Converting a Saiga

AKs come with either a single hook trigger or a double hook trigger.  The double hook version is the older of the two and is usually found on the versions of the AK-47 with milled receivers.  The single hook is the newer version instituted on the AK-74.  I find it interesting that Americans show a distinct preference for the double hook triggers, while armorers in Eastern Europe show a distinct preference for the single hook variety.

Installing the Fire Control Group

For this conversion, I use the First Son Enterprises (FSE) fire control group.  I like FSE parts because they come with a no-questions-asked lifetime guarantee, regardless if you are the original owner or not.  Service like that is not common.

1. Acquire a set of fire control parts.  For this conversion, we are using US-made parts in order to comply with the law.

on the bottom side.  At that point, I held the disconnector assembly in one hand while I pulled the keeper sleeve out with a pair of needle nose pliers.  BE CAREFUL! The disconnector is under spring pressure and as you remove the keeper sleeve, it has a tendency to want to become a projectile.

4. Now, gather the parts that you will need to assemble the fire control in the receiver.  You should have a hammer, hammer spring, hammer axle (pin), disconnector, disconnector spring, trigger, trigger axle (pin), safety lever, and some sort of axle retainer (more on this later).

5. The first part to go in is the hammer.  Install the spring on the hammer as shown in the picture above.  The hammer pivot boss must go under the bolt carrier rails while the hammer head must go over the reinforcement bar.  See the picture below.

6. Once you have the hammer in place, line up the pivot boss with the forward holes in the receiver and insert an axle (pin) from left to right.

7. Next, insert the safety lever.  Because of the way the safety works, it must be installed before the trigger and disconnector.  Once it is installed, put it in the "fire" position (down).

8.  Now, drop the trigger into place.  Once it is in place, use needle nose pliers to pull the ends of the hammer spring up and over the rear trigger levers, as in the picture below (the safety has been removed for the purposes of illustration).

9. Now comes the hard part.  We must install the little disconnector spring in the disconnector, then put the disconnector in place, and then line up the holes in the disconnector, trigger, and receiver.  Because I am right handed, I find it easier for me if I use a slave pin, in this case, a drill bit that is of smaller diameter than the trigger axle.  This helps me get the parts lined up in the correct geometry.

Once the parts are lined up, I push the slave pin out with the axle from left to right.

When the pin is in, you should be able to cock your carbine by pushing the hammer down with your thumb until the disconnector catches it.  Then you can pull the trigger to release the hammer.  Also, at this time, you can check the function of the safety.

10. There are two things left to do, one of which is very necessary.  The necessary thing is to figure out a way to prevent the hammer and trigger axles from backing out of the receiver, and the other thing is to fill in the holes that are left from the sporter configuration.  Fortunately, I found a way that addresses both at the same time.  I do this with a type of fastener called a binding post, also known as a Chicago post or screw post.  Binding posts are used to bind large loose leaf documents.  They come in various lengths, so I bought a couple that were slightly longer than what I needed and trimmed about 1/16 inch off the threaded end.  Basically, binding posts are a threaded tube with a head on one end with a matching bolt that screws into the tube.

I found these at my local ACE Hardware store. The technical description is "8-32 x 1-3/8 binding post and screw".  The Hillman P/N is 3833-L.  They are basically anodized, unfinished aluminum (steel would have been nice).  They will be refinished when I refinish the receiver.

11. In order for the binding posts to work, they need to be slightly shortened, as mentioned previously.  Also the holes on the right hand side of the receiver must be slightly enlarged just enough to allow the binding posts to be inserted.  Once this is done, they can be inserted.  First, the rearmost is inserted and screwed together. 

Next, the forward one is put in place with the retention spring in position on the left side with the long part of the spring threaded under the hammer axle in the groove which is made for the retention spring, and over the trigger axle in the groove.  You will probably have to hold the hammer spring towards the middle of the receiver in order to get the retention spring in the groove on the trigger axle.

Now your fire control group conversion is complete.  Time to move on to the next step.