Converting a Saiga

In 5.45x39 or 5.56x45, there are not as many choices of magazines as there are in 7.62x39, but there are several to choose from. The most common are the East German "Weiger" magazines, which can be used in a SAR-3 unaltered. For the Saiga, it appears that Galil magazines may be used. Galil magazines come in three variations, and there an adapter that allows for the use of M-16 magazines as well.

Fitting the Magazine (5.56x45mm)  For 7.62x39 instructions, click here.

Military surplus high-capacity (greater than 10 rounds) magazines will almost, but not fit into the .223 Saiga magazine well without alteration.  A close examination of the carbine reveals that the dimensions of the forward trunion at the front of the magazine well are different from most other examples of the AK in .223 Remington.  We have a choice of (a) altering the front trunion, or (b) altering the magazines.  Altering the trunion would require considerable machinist's skills, so in this conversion, the (b) option will be used.

For this conversion, I am using steel Weiger (East German) magazines.  I got them at AIM Surplus, which is also a good source for ammunition of Russian manufacture. I prefer these magazines because they are rugged and reliable.  There are some plastic milsurp magazines for the 5.56x45 cartridge, but I am not familiar with them.  Also, Galil magazines may be used, as long as they are not too loose.

Several people have written me to tell me that standard AK-74 magazines for the 5.45x39 cartridge can be converted for use with the 5.56x45 cartridge by altering the feed lips and changing the follower.  If you decide to try this technique, drop me a line and let me know how it works out.

Below is a picture of the standard Saiga sporter mag, the Weiger mag, and the Galil mag.

1.  The first thing to do is to insert the standard Saiga sporter magazine back into the magazine well (or magwell).  From the top, look at the relationship of the magazine feed lips to your new bullet guide and to the bolt carrier rails.  If you want to, take a pencil and mark a few index points that will help you make sure that the position of the milsurp mags is correct.

2. Next attempt to insert the milsurp magazine as you normally would.  You will notice that it will not completely lock into place.  This is because the front lip of the mag will catch the shelf on the trunion, but the mag will not rotate into place.  The reason is that the feed lips on the milsurp mag are too tall.  See position A in the picture below.  To get the magazine to work, the feed lips (A) will need to be deepened, the rear reinforcement (B) will need to be relieved, the top of the catch (C) will need to be lowered, and the bottom of the catch (D) will need to be raised.

There needs to be about 3/32 of an inch (2.4mm) removed from the feed lips.  Looking down from the top of the mag, you will notice that there is a reinforcing strip behind the front of the catch.  The feed lips will have to be relieved to be even with that strip and as far back as the first rib.

2. Next, disassemble the mag. On Weigers, there are two buttons that protrude from the floorplate. Depress both buttons simultaneously and slide the floorplate off to the rear of the mag.  Then, pull the spring and follower out of the mag.  Mount the mag in a vise without claming too hard, so that the mag's shape will not be distorted.

4. If you were to try inserting the mag now, you would notice that it rocks back a little more than before, but seems to be binding on the mag release lever.  The job now is to relieve the catch tab and the area above it so that will lock into the correct position.  First, I attacked the area above the catch tab, 'B' in the top picture, and relieved it with a fine mill bastard file about 1/32 of an inch (0.8mm).  I use files with a safe edge so that I can only cut one surface at a time.

5. The 'C' surface in the top picture should not be filed.  Understand that the 'C' surface and the front tab of the magazine determine the angle of the magazine in relation to the bolt and chamber when the magazine is seated.  If you take any of the metal off of the 'C' surface, you will need a thicker bullet guide in order for the ammunition to feed reliably.

6. The final fitting step is to relieve the bottom of the catch tab, 'D' in the top picture.  File it so that from the mag body, it's surface is parallel to the top of the mag catch tab.  This is a file-and-fit operation.  Take a little off and test fit.  If the mage release lever does not catch the magazine, take a little more off and test again.  You do not want the magazine to fit too loosely in the well, so do not take too much off.

7.  When the magazine locks in tight, remove it and bevel all the newly cut edges with a small file or Dremel polishing wheel.  Then reassemble the magazine.

8.  Load the magazine, go to the range, insert the mag into the carbine, and test fire.